Since I shared my Pad See Ew ผัดซีอิ้ว recipe, many people have told me that they can't find the fresh rice noodles. And when the dry ones really are not nearly as good, the only other sensible option is to make it. And you'll be glad to know it's not that hard!
Choosing the right pan to steam the noodles is perhaps the hardest part of this whole thing. The ideal pan should release the noodles cleanly without too much stickiness left behind, leaving noodles smooth on the underside.
When I filmed the video originally, the noodles released beautifully from the pan I used. But when I tried other pans later, I found some did not release as well and created a sticky bottom. Still usable in dishes, but they were more difficult to work with and needed more oil in between the sheets.
I found that the pan surface needs to be super smooth in order for things to release cleanly. Stainless steel, glass, porcelaine, or some nonstick surfaces are great. Aluminum and some rougher non-stick pans are not as great.
Thinner pans are also better because they cool down much faster, allowing you to move from one plate to the next quickly.
Many Thai recipes for fresh rice noodles calls for kneading the flour with a small amount of water first before adding the rest of the water to dissolve the dough into a batter. The kneading essentially forces the starch molecules to absorb water more readily, allowing the starch to hydrate more fully. The longer you knead, the better.
Why does this matter? Because fully-hydrated starch yields softer, shinier, and chewier noodles.
I was curious about this phenomenon, and a chain of introductions led me to Dr. Teeprakorn Kongraksawech, a food scientist from Oregon State University who told me:
In an industry level, a flour slurry is allowed to equilibrate for many hours before cooking it so flour becomes fully hydrated. A study compared noodles made from a 27-hr slurry vs a 3-hr slurry. The 27-hr slurry noodles were shinier, softer, and chewier. For a household/small-scale level, we may not want to wait that long. Slowly adding water and kneading will allow the flour to absorb more water.
So there, you can either knead or wait for the perfect noodles.
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